Hurricanes affecting the United States usually begin as late summer storms over Africa or the Caribbean Sea/gulf of Mexico. Cyclonic storms in west Africa move onto the Atlantic Ocean in the equatorial region and are blown west-ward by the trade winds. Moving over warm water (at least 80F), surrounded by warm and humid air, and with weak upper-level winds, a cyclonic circulation can build toward hurricane strength (74 mph and highter). Surface winds converge at the core (eye) of the hurricane and race upward, releasing latent heat. Nearing the Western Hemisphere and moving into higher latitudes, hurricane paths veer right (coriolis effect) and commonly hit the United States. Much damage and many deaths can result when the large mound of seawater beneath the hurricane eye surges on land at heights over 20ft.
Ocean waves do not travel as a physical mass like streams on land Rather, ocean waves are pulses of energy moving through the water body, causing water particles to rotate in place, similar to the passage of seismic waves.
Most waves are created by winds blowing across the water surface. The height of a wave depends on wind velocity, length of time the wind blows, length of water the wind travels across, and consistency of wind direction. On rare occasions, the various waves moving through the ocean will briefly synchronize and produce rogue waves up to 34-m (112_ft) high.
The distance between successive waves is the wavelength, and the time for two waves to pass a common point is the period. Ocean or lake waves cause orbital motion in water to depths of one-half wavelength. Velocity of waves in miles per hour is approximately 3.5 times the wave period in seconds.
When a wave moves into shallow water, its base is slowed by friction with the sea floor. When waves slow, their lengths decrease and their heights grow. When the height-to-wavelength ratio reaches about 1:7, a wave topples forward as a breaker.
In summer, waves have shorter heights and lesser lengths, causing sand to be pushed onto beaches. During winter, the backwash from taller waves, separated by greater wavelengths, drags beach sand offshore to be stored as submarine sandbars. Beach sand provides excellent protection for coastlines under heavy wave attack. Loose sand grains absorb tremendous amounts of wave energy, then quickly fall back into place.
A wave approaching a coastline that has different water depths will refract or bend as the wave portion in shal-lower water slows more than the portion in deeper water. When waves strike the beach at an angle, they create a long-shore current that carries beach sand along the coastline as a “river of sand”. Many beaches and where the sand pours into submarine canyons and flows downslope into deep water.
Humans have major effects on the coast. We build dams across rivers that prevent sand from reaching the beaches and mine tremendous quantities of sand to make concrete and glass. This results in reduced volumes of beach sand, which allows greater wave attack on sea cliffs, where expensive buildings commonly are built. Humans build groins, jetties, and breakwaters to try to control waves and sand movement, and we place riprap and concreate walls to try to stop wave attack.